Glossary

Batik drawn entirely by hand using a canting. The process takes weeks to months. Considered the most valuable because every stroke is unique.

Batik made with copper stamps (cap). This technique was introduced around the 1920s in Pekalongan and allows much faster production than hand-drawn batik.

Batik printed using offset or digital machines. It does not go through a wax-resist process, so the price is lower and the pattern is highly uniform.

A small copper tool with a wooden handle used to draw malam (wax) onto cloth. Its tip is a small spout that allows fine lines.

A stamp made of copper sheets formed into a pattern. Used to print wax onto cloth in the stamped batik technique.

A wooden or bamboo rack used to hang cloth during the batik-making process. The cloth is laid horizontally over the gawangan.

Special wax used as a dye-resist in the batik process. It is a blend of beeswax, paraffin, and resin. When applied to cloth, malam prevents dye from penetrating those areas.

Plain white cotton cloth that is the base material for batik. The quality of the mori greatly determines the quality of the finished batik.

A natural dye from the bark of Peltophylum pterocarpum. It produces the brown color typical of inland Javanese batik. It comes in soga jambal (dark brown), soga tingi (reddish brown), and soga nogosari (yellowish brown).

A natural dye from the Indigofera tinctoria plant that produces a deep blue color. Widely used in Javanese and coastal batik.

The process of soaking batik cloth in hot water to remove the wax after dyeing is complete. This is the final stage of batik-making.

The process of drawing patterns onto cloth using a canting filled with hot wax. This term refers to the basic hand-drawn batik technique.

Filling elements that occupy the empty space within a batik motif. They can be dots, fine lines, small flowers, or geometric patterns. They add depth and texture to the motif.

Repeating geometric patterns that form the foundation of a batik motif. Usually shaped as circles, squares, or other symmetrical patterns.

Batik motifs that may only be worn by certain ranks (usually court nobles). Wearing a forbidden motif without the proper rank was considered a breach of custom.

Batik that developed on the north coast of Java. Marked by bright colors, free motifs, and the acculturation of Chinese, Arab, and European cultures.

Batik that developed in the interior of Java, especially in court circles. Marked by soga colors, philosophical motifs, and strict rules of use.